Stalking in the great outdoors, Vietnam

Tram Chim National Reserve is in Tam Nong district in the Mekong Delta province of Dong Thap.

Tram Chim National Reserve, Vietnam

The wetland reserve covers a total area of 7,512 hectares and is home to over 200 kinds of birds, ducks, chickens and more than 150 kinds of fish, 130 species of plants and various kinds of amphibians, reptiles and insects.

The area is also famous for its Redheaded cranes, which come back to the wetlands in dry season, from roughly January to June and leave at the onset of wet season.

A recent fire in Tram Chim burned up 21 hectares of cajuput forest and grass fields, further depleting the cranes preferred habitat.

According to Huynh The Phien, director of the Tram Chim national Reserve, a wide area of co nang grass, the crane's favourite, has been re-planted in the reserve to try and ensure the cranes continue to come back.

At this time of year, with the cranes, the immense capujut forest covered with pink lotus flowers and ponds filled with purple water-lilies the wetlands are simply breathtaking.

You will need a pair of binoculars to see the cranes and the optimum time to go crane-watching is at sunrise or sunset.

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Follow the Mekong - Vietnam travel guide

With time to watch the ebb and flow of a river’s life, Graham Reilly floats from Vietnam to Cambodia.

I stare from the riverbank at this astonishingly vast and lively world of water. Here, in the charming provincial city of Can Tho in the heart of southern Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, it is as if the land is merely an afterthought. Everything is about the river and the way of life it sustains.

 

Cai Rang floating market, Mekong delta, Vietnam

It is a world of colour and movement, of a comforting spray of cool water on your face as you are rowed back to your hotel at night in a slim stick of a boat, of the sleepy glint of dusk as you trail your finger across the river’s surface, of the cough and splutter of a small passenger ferry as it crosses the river to Vinh Long, of the throaty gurgle of a rice boat as it slowly motors to Ho Chi Minh City or Cambodia.

The Mekong begins its 4500-kilometre journey to the sea in Tibet and winds its way through China, Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and finally into the Mekong Delta. The Vietnamese call the river Cuu Long, or nine dragons, and it is easy to see why, for here the Mekong spreads in great tentacles into nine exits to the sea.

Can Tho sits on the banks of one of these tributaries, the Hang Giang river, also known as the Bassac, an impossibly broad, bustling expanse of brown water. It is a pleasant capital of 300,000 people, with tree-lined boulevards, cool grassy squares and 19th-century buildings that are remnants of French colonial days.

One of the great pleasures of Vietnamese provincial towns such as Hoi An or Nha Trang is the local markets and Can Tho is no exception.

Selling vegetables, fruit and seafood, its large market spreads over an entire city block on one side and follows the curve of the river on the other. There is much to do here and it is a good place to organise a home stay with a farming family. It is also a good place to do nothing much at all. Gazing out from the pleasant promenade, I see boats of all shapes and sizes, one of which takes my friends and I early next morning to the famous Cai Rang floating market. Boats from all over the region – from Bac Lieu, Vinh Long and Camau – come here to sell what seems like every fruit and vegetable ever imagined: jackfruit, oranges, rambutan, bananas, longans, pineapples and sweet potatoes.

An, 30, is our guide. It is her father’s boat and her husband navigates it safely through the shifting mass of craft on the river. “He is a good husband,” she says, smiling. “He is happy to cooking and washing with me at night.” We nod in agreement. A good husband can be hard to find.

I explain to her that we want to travel to Cambodia by boat, from Can Tho to Chau Doc, across the border and up to the Cambodian capital, Phnom Penh, and then on to Siem Reap, home of one of the great wonders of the world, the temple complex of Angkor Wat. We’ve got six days for the journey of more than 400 kilometres. An offers to arrange the journey and a few phone calls later we agree to meet at the Can Tho dock at 2pm the next day.

I tell her I have visited these places before but always by road or air. This time I want a gentler, more romantic mode of transport along the mighty Mekong and its tributaries. I want to hear the gentle slap of the water against the boat, feel the tropical breeze on my skin and watch people go about their lives on the riverbanks. I want to be part of the landscape. I want to make the journey as important as the arrival.

Can Tho has several restaurants along the waterfront and that night we decide on the Thien Hoa. We settle happily at a pavement table in the evening balm, show no restraint and order a feast – fried snake with onions, sea bass soup with tamarind, prawns steamed in beer, catfish hotpot and coconut ice-cream. It is a meal to remember and a harbinger of culinary experiences to come.

Loaded up with fruit and sandwiches we’ve borrowed from the sumptuous breakfast buffet at the Victoria Hotel, we board the “fast boat” to Chau Doc, a journey An tells us will take about three hours. She says the slow boat, which leaves at 6.30am, takes about eight hours.

The fast boat is a long, relatively sleek, metal-hulled craft that does not go particularly fast, which turns out to be a blessing, given the pleasure of being on the water and lounging on the deck and watching the world go by. Most of the passengers are part of a package run by Delta Adventure Tours that includes a night at the company’s floating hotel in Chau Doc. As we are travelling independently, we each pay $US20 ($23) for the trip.

The boat seats about 30 people in something more or less resembling comfort. Sitting on the deck munching on a bag of rambutan, it becomes immediately clear to me that this is a working river. Large boats, washing fluttering in the breeze and overloaded with bananas, take their produce to market. Other boats dredge silt from the riverbed to be used in the construction industry. The weight of their cargo lays them so low in the water it is as if just one more grain could tip them into the muddy depths.

The riverbanks jump with activity. A line of brick kilns several kilometres long puffs smoke as families stack freshly baked bricks or load them on to waiting boats, the children straining under the burden. The smell of fermenting fish sauce wafts from factories onshore. Much of the riverbank is lined with sandbags to protect stilted houses from the river, which swells dramatically during the wet season.

There is so much of interest to observe on the water and the riverbanks that the journey passes quickly and before I know it we are approaching Chau Doc, a journey of 5 hours. The river seems to settle in the dusk and takes on a kind of dreamy indolence, as if it has done enough work for the day. Meanwhile, I have been lulled into a sense of well-being I’ve never experienced when travelling by road or air.

Impressed with our stay at the Victoria Hotel in Can Tho, we decide to spend a few nights at the Victoria in Chau Doc. It is another elegant, splendidly positioned, colonial-style building perched on the banks of the Bassac. The view from our room across the spreading river takes my breath away.

Chau Doc shuts down early and we are lucky to get to the Bay Bong restaurant while it is still serving dinner. The restaurant forgoes interesting decor for delicious Mekong cuisine. It’s another feast. We start with canh chua, the local sweet-and-sour fish soup, and follow this with steamed fish and prawns, including ca kho, stewed fish in a clay pot. It’s so good we return the next night.

Chau Doc is another attractive and welcoming provincial town of about 100,000 people with an enormous market that snakes along the riverfront. The fish section alone – which has not just fresh fish but dried, spiced, marinated and salted – is wondrous.

We’re close to the Cambodian border here and the people are more obviously Khmer, with their fuller features, darker skin and a preference for a chequered scarf over the ubiquitous Vietnamese conical hat. It is also home to a sizeable community of Chams, a Muslim minority of Malaysian appearance who live on the other side of the Bassac river.

We hire a boat and motor across to the Cham village. On the main street, dotted with stalls selling fruit and vegetables and snacks, women chat in the shade of the verandas of their wooden houses. Little girls sell waffles and simple cakes to visitors. I meet the caretaker of one of the two mosques. He shows us a short film about the history of the Cham but it is in Vietnamese so we leave none the wiser.

This part of the Bassac river, where it meets the Mekong, is home to an extraordinary concentration of floating houses, each of which is a self-contained fish farm. In the centre of each house is a large cage submerged in the river, in which families raise local bassa catfish, thousands of tonnes of which are exported to Australia every year. The fish are fed a kind of meal made from cereal, fish and vegetable scraps in cauldrons that rumble and roil. The smell is challenging.

At eight the next morning, we board another fast boat for the journey to the Cambodian capital. On another steamy, insanely hot day, we are looking forward to spending the trip on the deck, savouring the breeze. But a gaggle of young American backpackers with newsreader voices storm the boat and secure the outdoor area as their headquarters. It is their world. We just live in it.

As we travel towards Cambodia, the river begins to change. Gone is the frenetic boat activity and on the riverbank life takes on a less industrial, more bucolic demeanour. As we rejoin the Mekong, the river widens and soon the factories on the shore are replaced by cornfields, banana trees that shift and flap in the breeze and ragged, palm-thatched huts. Families bathe in the shallows and children scrub and splash their wallowing buffaloes. One-and-a-half hours later, when we reach the border at Vinh Xuong, Vietnam, and Kaam Samnor, Cambodia, we’re in a different, more lush, more languid world.

We disembark at the border post and after an hour or so filling in various forms and questionnaires, we say goodbye to the Vietnamese boat and board the altogether less salubrious Cambodian craft for the rest of the journey. But in the end the boat’s state of rugged disrepair matters little and most people spend the afternoon sitting on the rear deck or lounging on the bow and impairing the vision of the driver.

It is all too idyllic and, as it turn out, too good to last. Low water levels in the Tonle Sap river mean we have to complete the final leg of the journey by bus. But even this is fascinating, if cramped, as we hurl through the countryside and the sedate outskirts of Phnom Penh. As we arrive in the busy heart of the capital, I check my watch. It was just over seven hours ago that we boarded the boat in Chau Doc.

At our hotel, the owner tells us the water levels in the Tonle Sap are too low for us to go by boat to Siem Reap and that we’ll have to take the bus or fly. He dismisses our disappointment, saying the boat has a karaoke machine on board. “Very noisy.”

But we won’t decide what to do until after dinner – perhaps some steamed fish in coconut milk or fried squid with green peppers. As we hop into a tuk-tuk to take us to the waterfront, a young girl, brown as a nut and cute as a button, implores us to buy some bottled water.

“What’s your name?” I ask.

“Cosmic,” she replies, beaming. “Where are you from?”

“Australia.”

“Do you know Kevin Rudd?” she asks.

“Of course.”

“Well, he is my father.”

I look puzzled and she giggles. We are smitten and it’s bottled water all round. As we putter away, she yells to us: “Tell Kevin his daughter says hello.”

I wave and promise I will.

Source: brisbanetimes.com.au

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Notre Dame Cathedral shines brightly in southern city, Vietnam

Located in the heart of the city, Notre Dame Cathedral is a "must-see" place for travelers, Vietnamese and foreign alike, on their tours to Saigon-Ho Chi Minh City. The elegant and ancient church represents not only a religious work but an architectural masterpiece of immense cultural and historical value.

In the early years of its colonial administration in Vietnam, the French Government intended to build a church when planning the construction of the city. In August 1876, the Saigon Bishop launched a contest for designing a cathedral. Architect J. Bourad's design surpassed 17 others and was selected for construction m 1877, which was completed in 1880. He himself was the successful bidder and directly supervised the work.

Notre Dame Cathedral front side, Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon), Vietnam

All necessary materials, from cement to steel rods and screws were brought from France. Especially, the tiles to cover the facade ordered from Marseille (France) were without any mortar coating, and always maintain a rosy-red brilliance, with neither dusts nor moss and lichens. Hence, the church’s overall radiance and resplendence against the background of the shady green perennials.

With a length of 93m, width of 35.5m and its height of 57m (from the ground to the bell tower), the cathedral, not as large as it may look, commands a great appeal, not only for its classical beauty of Romanesque gothic architecture but also for its original interior and uniquely rare antiquities.

First, its set of six huge bells, with a total weight of 28,850 kg, sounding the six musical notes, so, la, ti, do, re and mi, were manufactured in France and carried over to Saigon in 1879. In the tower on the right are hung the four bells so, do, re and mi, and in the tower on its left, the two bells la and ti.

The decorative designs on each bell are very delicate, and the so bell is among the biggest in the world with a weight of 8,785 kg, diameter of 2.25 m and height 3.5 m (up to its hanger). The so bell, like the bass in the choir, resounds only once a year on Christmas Eve.

Notre Dame Cathedral backside, Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon), Vietnam

To sound the bell, it is necessary to have three or four robust men to stamp the starter that it can swing as high as its hanging bolt, then turn on the three-phase electric device for the motor to go on. On Sundays and at festivities, three bells are tolled, but on week days, only one bell is, the mi or the re, at 5am and 5.30 pm.

Despite the lack of the bell fa, when the five bells sound together at the same time, it is a marvelous concert, with low and high melodies unlike any other church bells. The melodious tunes can be heard as far as 10km as the crow flies.

The giant clock under the vault between the two bell-towers is another rare antiquity. An R.A., it was made in Switzerland in 1887, weighing more than 1,000 kg. This rough old-timed apparatus has told exact time for 125 years now, however, its sounding device is not operating due to its old spring.

The Cathedral's interior is composed of the central nave and two aisles, with two chapels attached. All its ornaments and decorative patterns are in the Romanesque and Gothic style, elegant yet solemn. Its high altar is made of monolithic marble featuring engravings of six angels supporting the canon table and the pedestal of three compartments, each being a carving describing a religious relic. Each chapel, stained glass window, or vault is a work of art and all these are engulfed in gentle light that gives you a sense of holy peace and devotion.

In front of the cathedral lies a large park, with two paths cutting each other to form huge cross. In the centre of the park stands a marble state of the Blessed Virgin, 4.2m high, weighing 3.5 tonnes. Her arms embrace the globe with a cross, her feet stamp on a snake, expressing a wish to bring peace to all humanity. For this very reason, the statue is also called the Virgin of Peace.

A work of art by artist G. Ciocchetti, it was displayed in 1959, hence its name of the Notre Dame de Saigon (its maiden name used to be the State Church, which had been erected and managed at the expense of the French Government).

In 1960, the Vatican Holy See established the Vietnamese Religious Orders, with three bishop residences in Hanoi, Hue and Saigon. This cathedral then bore the name of Saigon Bishopric Cathedral, and in 1962, the Vatican promoted it to Basilica, hence its full name Basilica Notre Dame de Saigon.

For 125 years, Notre Dame has been not only a place for the Catholic congregations to perform services and celebrate ceremonies, but has also turned into a homely icon of the Saigonese as well, a favorite destination for visitors to this southern city which features abundant sunshine all round the year

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Cruising in Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay in the northern province of Quang Ninh has thousands of islands and many beautiful areas. The bay area, there are many caves, beaches, restaurants, hotels and entertainment sites including tourist sites are Thien Cung and Dau Go..

Halong Bay, Vietnam

FOR NEARLY a decade, the nominee for a Natural Wonder of the World title has attracted more tourists since the bridge linking Bai Chay (Chay Beach) and Hon Gai (Gai Islet) was built.

The bay area, there are many caves, beaches, restaurants, hotels and entertainment sites. Among its well-known scenic spots and tourist sites are Thien Cung, Dau Go and Trinh Nu caves, and Ti Top, Tuan Chau and Ba Trai Dao beaches.

At hotels on Bai Chay, visitors can ask at reception desks to hire tourist ships to visit the bay. You can choose which ship from photos and decide before hand how long the tour should be and which places to visit or if you will have lunch on board.

The ships usually have sofas on the top deck for tourists to sit and watch the seascape. The deck below has tables and chairs made from precious woods worth billions of dong.

According to Ha, who is a helmsman, tourist ships have to compete with one another because hundreds of them operate in the bay. A ship is considered successful if it is recommended by its customers. For this reason, tourist ships strictly observe the itinerary and respect customers.

Tourist ships usually take people to see Bai Chay Suspension Bridge first and then take them to visit Thien Cung Cave, one of the biggest and most beautiful caves in the bay. If there is time, they will stop at other caves and Ti Top Beach, a beautiful coral beach.

The ships also go past Ga Choi Islet, two rocks which look like roosters fighting each other.
The crew normally brings along fresh seafood for customers’ lunch. During the boat tour, you can see small boats selling fish, crabs and shrimp that you can buy and grill them to eat on board.

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Phu Quoc island still paradise resort in Vietnam

Previously Phu Quoc had been a secret. Anyone who visited at the turn of the century will recall a sleepy island with few tourist services and not much by the way of infrastructure.

Bai Sao Beach on Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

And despite the talk of a construction boom, for many years nothing much changed. But there are now signs of a more mass-tourist friendly Phu Quoc emerging. The on-going construction of two main, long roads from Duong Dong town to Cua Can commune in the north and to An Thoi town in the south will make remote parts of the island more accessible than ever before. Construction on the new international airport broke ground recently, boosting the government’s dream to turn Phu Quoc into an international beach destination.

What is good news for the State’s coffers and investors might be bad news for those who came to Phu Quoc, because of the fact it was off the tourist map and free from tacky resorts. While infrastructure was limited, you could still jump on a motorbike and drive around the island; there’s nothing like turning down some random bumpy road only to discover a white sandy beach with turquoise waters at the end. You could sit back in a hammock, order fried squid from a local family and sip on a cool beer and smugly grin as though you had discovered a lost paradise.

It’s not like Phu Quoc has suddenly turned into Ko Samui, mind you. For the time being many of the beaches on the island remain untouched. Away from Duong Dong town at the end of the under-construction roads there’s still plenty of untouched paradise for those who need to get away from it all.

Flopping around on these beaches, you’ll find it hard to disagree with the travel website that recently voted Phu Quoc as one of top five hidden beaches in the world; although there is a certain irony to promoting a destination’s hidden quality

The island is also ideal for snorkelling and scuba diving. In the middle of the island you will find tropical forests on a low mountain range which makes for good trekking. The forest’s diversified fauna and flora makes it a conservationist’s dream. One of two famous springs on the island is Da Ban, just outside of Duong Dong by a large lake, which supplies fresh water for the islanders. The only way to reach the spring is to take a 10-minute trip on a sampan – it is $10 for a return trip. Large rocks form small ponds around the spring, which make for ideal baths.

Tourists sit in the sun, reading novels, munching on grilled shrimp. The only dilemma is whether to order a fruit juice or a cold beer. You can easily find a secluded spot should you wish to bathe au naturel. The setting is postcard perfect with majestic rock formations and pristine forests all around.

Later on in the evening, you may spot a few signs of what might be to come if tourism continues to grow on Phu Quoc. On the beach a number of new bars have opened catering for the young, sunburned and thirsty travellers. Among them, Ahoy is said to be the biggest. It features an underground bar. On one particular visit business is slow.

In fact, there are only three customers. Undeterred by the measly crowd a resident Filipino band plays a rousing set. But Phu Quoc is not for bars or late nights. The three customers all head off for an early night. Tomorrow morning paradise island awaits

Source: Timeout

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